This is the third post in a series about our trip to Utah. If you missed the other posts, click here and here.
Of all the parks we planned to visit on our Utah trip last year, I was especially excited about Bryce Canyon National Park. Decades ago, my parents did a trip “out West” and came back with tales of Bryce’s hoodoos—strange-looking rock formations in the canyon. Their enthusiasm and descriptions of Bryce’s wild beauty stuck in my mind all those years, and now I couldn’t wait to see it myself.
We left early in the morning, which is our way (fortunately our daughter puts up with it) and drove about 90 minutes from Kanab. Toward the end of the drive, we rode through Bryce Canyon City, a small town that provides accommodations and dining for those who want to use it as a base for exploring the park.
As we neared the park, we went through a forest that is home to Red Canyon, with its striking red rock lining the road. Then we came upon a famous natural arch with a tunnel carved into it. Seeing and driving through it was a cool experience.
A short while later, we entered Bryce Canyon National Park. At the Visitor’s Center, we confirmed our plans with a ranger and stood in line for a short wait to catch the shuttle.
The bus stops at the four points of the famous Bryce Canyon Amphitheater: Bryce Point, Inspiration Point, Sunset Point, and Sunrise Point.
We got off the shuttle at Bryce Point, walked to the lookout, and gasped with awe.
Before us, stretching as far as the eye could see, stood the hoodoos—tall, thin, pointy red and white rock formations. Hoodoos are formed through erosion: naturally-acidic rainwater dissolves and rounds off the edges of the limestone. Then during the cold months, water freezing at night and thawing during the day forces existing cracks in the stone apart. As the stone continues to break down, windows form and collapse to create the red colored pinnacles. (More info here.)
At the view from the lookout, we could see different areas of the mostly red and white hoodoo structures. Some of the groupings look like castles, apartment buildings, even tall, skinny people. Several of the formations throughout the canyon have names, such as Thor’s Hammer, the Chessmen, and Wall of Windows.
After taking photos of the spectacular sight in front of us, we left the fenced-in lookout area and started the rim trail. The trail, which is flat and about a mile long, provides amazing views all along the Amphitheater and connects the viewpoints. I couldn’t wait to view the canyon from above it.
Unlike the lookout we had just left, the rim trail does not have a fence, so the view is unobstructed. Which is wonderful.
Until you realize the trail does not have a fence. And you see how close to the edge you and your loved ones really are.
We passed a sign that read: “Rim Trail. Dangerous cliffs. Stay on the trail.” They didn’t have to tell me twice—or even once.
I’m generally not afraid of heights, but I was definitely unnerved. I prayed a lot as we walked along, fussed at my family to be careful, and made sure to follow my own advice.
Since the morning had been cool, I soon stuffed my hoodie into my backpack. The bright sun in a bright blue sky made the temperature climb steadily, but a nice breeze provided some relief. To avoid dehydration and altitude sickness, I drank plenty of water and reminded my family to do it too. (I sound like a nag, don’t I? I’m not really.)
We took so many photos from so many angles, each showing an awe-inspiring view. How would I ever choose my favorites?
Alongside the trail, we saw shrubs, small wildflowers, and an occasional chipmunk. We also saw a few groups of people passing us. Everyone seemed like more serious hikers than we were—at least they had hiking gear.
During our week in Utah, we heard different languages and accents in all the parks and struck up conversations with people to find out where they were from and what they had seen so far.
On the Bryce rim trail, we were passed by three young Australians with long, confident strides, and a group of Croatians. We also talked to a couple from Canada, who gave us tips about some of the places they’d been. Later she showed no fear (or caution) as she perched on the edge of one ledge that jutted out into the canyon. Her poor husband stood several feet back in a safer zone, snapping photos and trying to convince her to come back.
I confess, I was very relieved when she did.
When we finished the rim trail, we walked to Bryce Canyon Lodge for lunch. The air conditioning felt wonderful, and the elk chili got two thumbs up from my family.
As we paid our bill, we told our server that we were surprised that the park wasn’t more crowded.
“You guys came at the perfect time: Labor Day week,” she said. “We were packed over the weekend but everyone left this morning. They’ve got to get their kids back to school.” She told us that all the Labor Day visitors go home on Sunday or Monday. This was usually a quiet week. “Next week, the park will be filled again with couples without kids and seniors/empty nesters. We call them ‘the newlyweds and the nearly-deads’.” We laughed so hard at that term but took her tip to heart for future vacations.
After lunch, we did some shopping and headed back toward Kanab.
Like the Grand Canyon, Bryce Canyon was absolutely spectacular in a very different way. The colorful hoodoos made it seem strange and even other-worldly. At times, I could only say “crazy” and “amazing” and “incredible”. Even now, I have trouble describing the wonders we saw and the awe I felt.
But as I reflect on it, look at the photos, and remember our day in incredible Bryce Canyon, I am amazed again, awed again. And so very grateful.
Have you ever been to Bryce Canyon? What is your favorite national park? I’d love to hear about what you experienced. Leave a comment below or on the Glimsen Facebook page.
This is the third post in a series about our trip to Utah. If you missed the other posts, click here and here.
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